Grading a dress for girls
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This excerpt will give you an insight into grading children’s clothing. You will find the complete article on grading as well as further grading for ladies’ wear and children’s wear in our reference book “Grading Women & Kids“.
Milan RTW Fall Winter 2015 February March 2015
This reference book focusses on the special subject of increasing and decreasing patterns in size according to the M. Müller & Sohn system – also known as GRADING.
Grading a Dress for Girls from Size 98 to Size 116
This dress is graded over the side seam and the length. The grading increment at the chest is only 1 cm per size according to the size chart, while the grading increment for the body height is 6 cm per size. The grading increments are shown in table 9.
Back Pattern, Front Pattern, Drawing Template for the Neckline and One-Piece Sleeve with Cuff
1 1–2 Scye depth increment = 18 mm. Measure this amount perpendicular to the waist line atthe centre back and at the neck line. 2-3 Back width increment = 6 mm. Measure this amount to the right at the neckline and the hem. Draw the centre back parallel to the basic pattern.
2–4 Neck point increment = 4.5 mm. Calculation: Back width increment 6 mm minus neck width increment 1.5 mm = 4.5 mm. Measure the neck point increment to the right and draw the new neckline using the basic pattern as a template. 5–6 Shoulder increment = 9 mm. Place the Basic pattern on the new neck point parallel to the centre back and transfer the shoulder seam and mark the shoulder width (dashed line). Extend the shoulder seam 9 mm and draw the armhole to the back armhole notch. 7-8 ½ of the scye width increment = 1.5 mm. Add the ½-scye-width increment parallel to the side seam and lengthen it. 9 Length increment = 90 mm. This measurement is also dependant on the style. 10–11 Back waist length/waistline relocation = 18 mm. The increment for the back waist length is 36 mm (12 mm per size) according to the size chart. The back waist length/waistline relocation must be adjusted by 18 mm since the scye depth has been already graded by 18 mm.
2 1–2 Front waist length increment: 18 mm. Measure the front waist length increment perpendicular to the waist line from the neck point upwards. 2–3 Front neck point increment = 4.5 mm. Calculation: Chest width increment 6 mm – neck width increment 1.5 mm = 4.5 mm. Measure this amount to the front. 4–5 Chest width increment = 6 mm. Add the chest width increment parallel to the centre front. 6 Shoulder increment = 9 mm. Place the Basic pattern on the new neck point parallel to the centre front, transfer the shoulder seam and mark the shoulder width (dashed line). Extend the shoulder seam 9 mm and draw the armhole to the front armhole notch. 7-8 ½ scye width increment = 1.5 mm. Add this amount parallel to the side seam and lengthen it. 9 Length increment = 90 mm. This measurement is also dependant on the style.
10–11 Back waist length/waistline relocation = 18 mm. The increment for the back waist length is 36 mm (12 mm per size) according to the size chart. Draw the new waist line parallel to the Basic pattern and relocate the waist intake for a fitted dress.
2a It is useful to make a template for drawing the new neckline. Trace a copy of the Basic neck line. 3-3a ½ neck width increment = 0.75 mm.
Measure 0.75 mm upwards at the neck point. 4-5a Neck width increment: 1.5 mm. Measure the neck width increment to the front. 3a Place the neckline template on point 3 of the front pattern (fig. 2). Turn the template so that point 5a meets the extended centre front. Draw the new neck line.
3 1-2 Vertical sleeve cap increment = 14.4 mm. Measure the sleeve cap increment upwards. 2-3 Horizontal sleeve cap increment = 9 mm. Square out to the right. 4-5 Vertical sleeve seam increment = 3.6 mm. 5-6 Horizontal increment at the sleeve cap = 18 mm. Measure this amount to the right. 7-8 Back sleeve seam increment = 19.5 mm. Calculation: Horizontal increment at the sleeve cap 18 mm + ½ scye width increment 1.5 mm = 19.5 mm. Measure this amount to the right and draw the sleeve seam parallel to the basic pattern. Extend downwards.
9-10 ½ scye width increment =1.5 mm. Measure this amount to the left. Draw the sleeve seam parallel to the basic pattern. Extend downwards.
11 Sleeve length increment = 54.6 mm. Calculation: Length increment 69 mm – vertical sleeve cap increment 14.4 mm = 54.6 mm. Measure this amount downward. Draw the sleeve hem with the basic pattern. Mark the sleeve vent. 12 -13 Relocate the sleeve vent 18 mm to the
right = horizontal increment at the sleeve cap. 14-15 Lengthen the cuff around the hem width increment = 9 mm.
In additon this article includes…
Grading a Jacket with Hood and Front Zipper from Size 128 to Size 152
