Children’s Wear – Dirndl
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The full article includes all belowing variants with the measurement charts. This is an extract from our magazine Rundschau for women 9.2011.
We show you one design of the five models to give you an insight into the pattern construction.
Variant 1 – Dirndl with Laced Bodice
Size 110, approx. 4 years
(Photo Credit: Technical Drawing S. Lindner)
Front and Back Pattern and Sleeve
Measure the scye depth, the back waist length and the hip depth downward on a vertical line. Square out to the left from all points. Measure the neck width from the neck point to the left. Square up 1.5 cm and draw the back neckline. On the chestline, measure the back width + ease to the left and square up for the back width line. On the back width line, measure 1 cm downward from the intersection with the neck width line for the shoulder slope. Draw an auxiliary line for the shoulder seam. Measure the shoulder width + 0.5 cm on this line for the back shoulder seam. Measure the scye width + ease to the left and square up and down for the front pitch line. From the chestline, measure the front armhole notch, ¼ scye depth and the armhole depth upward on the front pitch line. Mark the sideseam at 1/3 scye width and square down.
Draw the back armhole as illustrated. On the chestline, measure the chest width + ease from the front pitch line to the left and square up and down for the centre front. From the waistline, measure the front length II upward on the centre front line. From the centre front, measure the neck width plus ease downward and to the right. Draw the front neckline as shown in the illustration. Transfer the back shoulder width minus 0.5 cm to the front and draw the front shoulder seam. Plot the front armhole.
Measure the armhole circumference and calculate the sleeve measurements. Draft the one-piece sleeve pattern according to the measurement chart as already shown before.
Front and Back Pattern
Trace a copy of the basic pattern. Taper the centre back 1 cm at the waist, square down from the waistline and extend this line to 32 cm skirt
length. Trim the shoulder 2 cm and lower the armhole 2 cm. Draw the new armhole on the front and back pattern. Mark the shoulder straps 4 cm wide. Lower the neckline 7 cm at the centre front. Lower the neckline 6 cm at the centre back. Plot the styleline on the front pattern as shown in the illustration. Draw the square neckline as illustrated. Plot the waist dart on the back pattern. Taper the sideseam at the waist and draw the waistline seam. Lengthen the shoulder straps around 12 cm. Extend the sideseams 4 cm each at the hem. Extend the style seam 2.5 cm each at the hem.Mark the cutting lines for the hem flare. Sew the zipper into the centre back seam.
Finished Pattern Pieces
Separate all pattern pieces and complete all overlapping sections. Copy the collar pattern. Slash and spread the skirt pieces 8 cm at the waist and 16 cm at the hem at each cutting line. Mark the gathers. Blend all seamlines. Mark the grainlines. Sew the zipper into the centre back seam. Tie the straps at the shoulders.
Variant 2 – Dirndl Blouse
Size 110, approx. 4 years
(Photo Credit: Technical Drawing S. Lindner)
Variant 3 – Dirndl with Leg-of-Mutton Sleeves
Size 116, approx. 5 years
(Photo Credit: Technical Drawing S. Lindner)
Variant 4 – Folklore Dress
Size 128, approx. 7 years
(Photo Credit: Technical Drawing S. Lindner)
Variant 5 – Dirndl with Puff Sleeves
Size 98, approx. 2 – 3 years
(Photo Credit: Technical Drawing S. Lindner)