Slimline Suit
Deutsch
A slim line gives the classic men’s suit a modern silhouette. The body-hugging fit can be worn in the office, as a formal wear or in casual-chic.
Jacket with Shawl Collar
Basic Pattern: Slim-Fit Jacket Block, Size 50
- One button
- Narrow shawl collar
- Double-welt pockets
- Chest pocket
- Side vents
- Length: 74cm
1 Design Pattern and Collar:
Mark the position of the closing button 1 cm above the waist line and add 1.3 cm overlap. Draw a guideline for the front edge perpendicular to the hem line. Draw the curved cut-away front as shown in the illustration. The guideline for the front edge does not have to meet the centre front at the hem. The angled construction is possible only if the abdomen width is up to 1 cm larger than the chest width.
Extend the shoulder seam 2 cm to the left for the lapel construction and mark the position of the lapel break. Measure the back neckline for the construction of the felt under collar. Lengthen the lapel break line upward. Measure the determined back neckline minus 1 cm from the front neckline corner to the lapel break. From this point square out to the right and measure 1.2 cm for the collar roll and 2.5 cm for the collar stand. Draw the collar seam to the neckline. Draw the centre back perpendicular to the collar seam line. Plot the shawl collar and the lapel according to the illustration. Measure and compare the collar seam and the neckline. The collar seam should be approximately 1 cm shorter than the neckline, since the collar gets longer when steam-pressed into shape.
Mark the welt pockets and the chest pocket according to the illustration. Mark the side vents. Draw a horizontal line from the pocket to the back side seam and mark the length of the side vents 2 cm below this line. Draw the hip curves straight for the vent fold and extend the hem 0.8 cm at the vent fold. Draw the vent fold 4 cm wide. Draw the vent underlap 4 cm wide at the upper edge and 5 cm wide at the hem. Shorten the underlap to prevent showing at the hem.
Mark the grainlines on the side panel and on the back pattern perpendicular to the hemlines. On the front pattern, mark the grainline along the dart middle line.
2 Sleeve
Determine the cap ease. The cap ease should amount 5 to 8 % for industrial manufacturing and 8 to 10 % for a tailored jacket. Slash from the sleeve cap to the hemline and increase or decrease the ease by spreading or overlapping the sleeve pieces. Mark the sleeve vent 11 cm long for four buttonholes. Draft the overlap and underlap. Mark the button positions. Mark the grainline perpendicular to the elbow line.
Basic Pattern, the Longjacket pointed lapel, the low crotch pleated pants and many more pattern cutting constructions for men`s wear can be found in the reference book Fundamentals Menswear Pattern Making.
Longjacket pointed lapel
Basic Pattern: Slim-Fit Jacket Block, Size 50
- Two buttons
- Narrow pointed lapel
- Frankfurt pockets
- Chest pocket
- Centered back vent
- Length: 84cm
Pleated Trousers
Basic Pattern: Pleated Slim-Fit Trouser Block, Size 50
- Low crotch
- Regular waist
- Two front pleats
- Wide waistband
- Double-welt pockets
- Welt back pockets
- Seven belt loops
- Hem width: 36cm
In this e-dossier you find instructions for the pattern construction of five different suit jackets for men.
Further instructions for pattern construction and patterns for sewing men’s suits can be found in our online shop.
Hello,
Slimline suits look great but where do I buy the pattern?
Thanks.
Alla
Dear Alla,
to buy the pattern sheet for a slimline suit please click the links below:
https://www.muellerundsohn.com/shop/schnittmuster-slim-fit-sakkogrundschnitt-einreihig/
https://www.muellerundsohn.com/shop/schnittmuster-hosengrundschnitt-bogen-nr-6/
Are the instructions in English or German?
Dear Alan, the Rundschau’s contributions on patternmaking are available in German with an English translation.
Thank you for your answer. One more question:
Do you have a physical store in Munich where I can come in and see the “Fundamentals Menswear” book or any of the patterns available for download?
We do not have a shop, but you are welcome to visit us at the editorial office in Munich. Here you can see all our books. Please contact us by telephone to make an appointment.
I need the English version of the pattern.
Dear Ojo,
thank you for your comment. You can find patterns for slim fit suits in our online shop. Please follow the links below:
https://www.muellerundsohn.com/en/shop/pattern-slim-fit-jacket-single-row-basic-block/
https://www.muellerundsohn.com/en/shop/pattern-pleated-trousers-basic-block/
Kind regards
M. Müller & Sohn Team
That gud to know thanks for ur help
Pls the design pattern and collar ,can I get the illustration in the diagram in English
Please check your E-mails.
I will really like to be like u guys
Thanks for your kind words! We really appreciate your interest and trust in the M. Müller & Sohn brand. Have a great week!
Good one…. but how can I get the pattern
Hi Samuel, thanks for your comment. This post only shows patternmaking instructions for the slimline suit while the basic block, the longjacket pointed lapel, the low crotch pleated pants and many more patternmaking instructions for menswear can be found in our reference book »Fundamentals Menswear«: https://www.muellerundsohn.com/en/shop/fundamentals-menswear/
Kind regards