M. Müller & Sohn Magazin 11.2022

Professional Magazine for Fashion and Pattern Making // Das Gewandwerk // 18th Century Historical Robes // Das Stiff Bodice // Anna Meyer // Historical Patterns: Rococo Grading/Adjusting from Normal to Belly Size

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Pattern Construction Ski Combination

(Photo Credit: © CATWALKPIX.COM)

(Photo Credit: Catwalkpix.com)

This article is an extract from the journal Rundschau for women 12.2017. In this issue you can find the full instruction.

Ski Jacket

Template: Basic Jacket Block in Size 38

Front and Back Pattern

The jacket has a total length at the centre back of 67 cm. The two-layer look is divided as follows: The jacket is 61.5 cm long and the visible bottom piece is 5.5 cm. Lower the neckline 1.5 cm at the centre front, 1 cm at the shoulder and 0.5 cm at the centre back. The bust dart can stay at the shoulder for this design. The back shoulder dart can also remain in its basic position. Mark the shoulder yoke 3 cm wideat the neckline, 3.5 cm wide at the dart legs and 4.5 cm wide at the armhole. Draw the front and back yoke as shown in the illustration. Mark the begin of the quilted inserts 7 cm below the chest line at the centre front and centre back. Draw the curved seamline for the quilted inserts from the centre front and centre back to thesideseam, ending 3 cm below the chest line.

Mark four additional seamlines 4 cm parallel to the upper seamline. Close the dart intake on the finished insert patterns. Cut the insert pieces on the bias grain for a better fit. Line the insert pieces with volume fleece for a voluminous effect. Mark the position of the flap pocket 2 cm before the waist dart. Draw the pocket flap 14.5 cm long. Take the waist dart intake into account when marking the pocket position on the side panel. The flap pocket is only a stylish Detail and does not have a functional pocket bag. The actual pocket is the 14-cm long zipper pocket which is positioned 1.5 cm beside the waist dart as shown in the illustration. Mark the welt for the Zipper pocket 0.8 cm wide. Trim the centre front 0.5 cm for the zipper width. Draw the second hem for the layered look 5.5 cm above the hemline. Extend the upper hemline 0.5 cm at each sideseam. Mark the bottom piece 9 cm long and draw the seamline for the attaching the two layers and the lining. Both jacket layers will be sewn to the front zipper and the front facing.

Sleeve Cuff

Copy the lower sleeve to construct the snug sleeve cuff with thumbhole. Draw the seamline for the cuff 4 cm above the hemline. This is also the hem allowance. The wind blocking sleeve cuff is attached in the hem allowance seam.

Draw the cuff 13 cm long and taper the cuff hem 2 cm each side. Mark the thumb position 4 cm away from the front sleeve seam and draw a perpendicular line to the cuff hem. Mark the thumbhole 3.5 cm below the cuff seam and 1.5 cm above the cuff hem. Sew and turn the sleeve cuff double from functional Jersey for the thumbhole.

Finished Pattern Pieces

Material Suggestions

Bonded softshell fabric, wind and water repellent. 3-ply functional fabric or 2-ply functional fabric finished with a functional thermal fleece lining. Volume fleece for the quilted inserts. Functional jersey for the sleeve cuffs.

Ski Pants

Template: Basic Trouser Block in Size 38

Waistband

Copy the front and back waist and draw the contoured waistband 4.5 cm wide as shown in the illustration. Draw the inner waistband 6 cm wide at the sideseam and 10 cm at the centre back. Mark the adjustable tab on the back of the waistband 5.5 cm long and 4 cm wide. Add 3 cm overlap at the front and mark the button 1 cm away from the front edge.

Finished Pattern Pieces

M. Müller & Sohn - Schnittmuster - DOB - Grundschnitt Westen

In European Sizes 36 – 50. Printed pattern sheet or PDF download (depending on purchasing option).

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