Bolero Jacket pattern construction
Deutsch
The Bolero jacket looks nice over a tight top or dress and can be designed with or without collar. The illustration shows the Bolero jacket With a built-up neckline.. As a template, use the semi-fitted basic dress block with shoulder pad adjustment, armhole enlargement and armhole lowering.
This is an article from the book Metric Patternmaking for Dresses and Blouses
Draft 1
Lower the neckline at the shoulder and at the centre back according to the illustration. Draw guidelines over the lowered necklines on the front and back pattern. Measure 3 cm for the collar Width at the shoulder perpendicular to the guidelines. Blend the seam transition from the shoulder to the collar. Draw the upper collar edge on the front pattern rounded to the front edge and further to the side seam. Draw the round styleline from the collar edge to the bust point and further to the side seam. The waist dart can be closed completely or only partially depending on the desired look. Extend the centre back upward and mark the back collar 4.5 cm Wide. Draw the upper edge of the back collar. Measure 3 cm from the intake at the armhole to the tight and draw a cutting line from this point to the middle of the back collar edge. Draw the back hem line perpendicular to the centre back and mark 2 cm closing amount at the side.
Draft 2
Extend the length of the collar edge 0.5 – 0.7 cm at each side of the front style seam as shown in the illustration. Relocate the shoulder dart to the collar and shorten the shoulder dart to 8 – 10 cm length. Extend the length of the collar edge 0.5 – 0.7 cm at each side of the dart legs. Blend the collar edge. Draw the seam lines for the front and back facing on the front and back pattern. Copy the front and back facing. Close the dart in the back facing and blend the seam lines. Stretch and press the front and back facing at the overlapping sections around 0.5 cm before sewing.