Cut Out Blazer
Deutsch
Dear Fashion creators, ripped jeans, from which the knee flashes out and where one fears, the wearer could get a cold because of holes, are still hip. Depending on the amount of cuts, often heavily in the purse to book. In the meantime, however, they have also become the cutting-technical source of inspiration. Dresses, tops, pants and blazers with cut-outs are trendy. There are cut-out dresses in many international collections this summer. These openings/cuts are subtly placed on the shoulders, waist or back, emphasizing the cut lines of the dress and refreshing the look. In this article, you will find three such models with cut- outs. As a material for fashion with cut-outs, I recommend not to choose soft fabrics such as chiffon, a certain level should be guaranteed. Otherwise, the cut- outs are not well defined. A light spandex content is always recommended. In terms of color, strong, bright colors, such as black, white or red, create a contrast to the skin or the “underneath”. The construction of a pattern shown here is based on the size 40.
Elisabeth Kreienbühl – ekstylist@bluewin.ch
The swiss fashion designer and pattern technician, Elisabeth Kreienbühl is the co-author of the Swiss pattern system, which is taught at various schools in France. She is a co-initiator of the fashion design and trade school in Worb / Bern, founded 20 years ago, and lectures in design, creation, pattern making and pattern cutting CAD for advanced courses. As a guest lecturer, she is in demand internationally. As a specialist author, Elisabeth Kreienbühl has made a name for herself through her contributions to the RUNDSCHAU for Internationale Damenmode. The Rundschau-Verlag has so far, published four books by Elisabeth Kreienbühl using the Swiss pattern system.
This article is an excerpt from the book Design und Schnitt.
Pattern instruction for a blazer with cut-outs
- A suitable basic block is traced with the following extensions: Shift the pitch lines 0.5 cm towards the side seam and lower the armhole 2 cm. Remove the back dart and redraw the shoulder. The depth of the breast dart is narrowed 3 cm. Add 5 cm to the hemline. Mark the armpit with 13.5 cm width. Draw the armhole and measure. Add 2 cm parallel to the center front for the overlap. Extended the neckline 1 cm. Taper the side seam 5 cm and extend the hemline 2 cm at each side seam. Mark the lapel break line at the center front.
- Construct the lapel collar and continue the shape. Draw the panel seam in the front pattern and the dart in the back pattern as shown in the illustration. These seams are overlapped in the hem and lead to a hem extension at the hip part of the jacket. Draw the cut-outs from the side seam at the waistline as illustrated. The hemline is curved and slightly shorter in the back.
- Trace the hip part so the waistline joins together, while the hem is extended as shown. The back pattern receives an inverted pleat at the center back. Draw a narrow sleeve. Extend the sleeve cap 3 cm and lower the upper arm line 2 cm.
