Traditional Guild Clothing
Deutsch
Traditional guild clothing is worn both by ordinary craftsmen during their everyday work as well as during the journeyman years – the time when craftsmen go on the road after completing their apprenticeship, which is still common in France, Scandinavia and German-speaking countries. Guild clothing stands for the craft and its centuryold tradition. The traditional color scheme for the clothing is divided into black for all woodworking trades, light or gray and beige for the stoneworking trades and olivebrown guild pants for all those who work with sand. The metalworking trades wear blue, red colors stand for textile trades. Guild clothing is made in different types of fabrics, such as corduroy fabrics and pilot fabrics. It is recommended to use the same fabric for vest and trousers.
In this e-dossier you will find instructions for the pattern construction of guild clothing for men.
When choosing the vest, the back part is especially crucial. Guild vests with a short back are more suitable for the warm season, while a long back is very comfortable in the cold season as it protects the kidneys. Guild vests usually have pockets that provide space for important utensils from money and papers to small tools, screws or nails. Most vests are equipped with two pockets in the front next to the buttons. The vest has eight white pearl buttons in the front, symbolic of the 8-hour workday. The buttons are sewn on in a special way so that the thread forms the letter Z.
Guild trousers are available with or without flare. This is a tradition with a practical background as a flared cut prevents dirt or chips from falling into the shoe. The pants usually have many pockets for utensils, such as cargo pockets on the side and at least one pocket to hold a folding rule. Most guild pants are also equipped with back pockets to be closed with a button. Almost without exception, the pants have two metal zippers in the front, a higher waistband and extra wide belt loops or buttons for suspenders. There are also knee pockets in order to insert knee pads or so-called double knees: fabric that is applied twice on the trousers. The guild shirt, the perennial, is a collarless white shirt, possibly with piping.
Guild Shirt (Staude)
Template: Basic shirt block in Size 50 (included in the e-dossier)
- Historically inspired pattern
- Stand-up collar
- Wedge sleeves
- Front tucks with bar
- Pinch pleats in centre front and back
Front and Back Pattern
Draw a 5 cm wide yoke at the back pattern. Decrease the back shoulder width 5 – 6 cm, measure the shoulder width and transfer the amount to the front pattern. Mark the dividing seam from the new shoulder point to the hem.
You can find the complete instructions for the guild shirt as well as other pattern constructions for guild clothing for men in the e-dossier Pattern Making Guild Clothing.
Content:
- Basic shirt block
- Guild shirt / Staude
- Basic waistcaot block
- Double breasted guild waistcoat
- Basic trousers block
- Flared guild trousers
