Pattern Making for Women: Jackets with Gusset Variations

In this e-dossier, you will find instructions on pattern construction for tree different jackets with kimono sleeve.

The subject of bodice sleeve combination opens up diverse design possibilities. The field of bodice sleeve combination includes, among others, the gusset kimonos, which we will address in this e-dossier. Here, the sleeves are cut on the front and back parts without a separating seam. The overlap problem is solved by a gusset piece inserted under the arm. There are different ways to design this underarm gusset.

Please note that our e-dossiers are contents from our pattern making reference books or extracts from our professional magazine.

Content:

Details Short Jacket with Sleeve Panel Gusset:

• Short, boxy cut jacket
• Wide stand-up collar with collar flap
• Shaped overlap with bar tack to the side seam
• Cross dividing seam with seam flap pockets
• Longitudinal split seam in the lower front pattern
• with seam pockets
• Sleeve construction with sleeve panel gusset
• Sleeves with fixed bar tack from gusset seam to gusset seam
• Back part with seam in the centre back and cross-dividing seam
• Length in c.b.: 60.0 cm

Details Kimono Jacket with Diamond-Gusset:

• Jacket with lapel collar and square overlap
• Right side with piped pocket and attached bellows pocket
• Tie belt between right front edge and left side seam
• Sleeve construction with diamond gusset
• Sleeves with bound slit and cuff
• Back with seam at centre back
• Length in c.b.: 70.0 cm

Details Jacket with Square Armscye Gusset:

• Long jacket with stand-up collar
• Stand-up collar attached at the front
• Buttoned centre front
• Sleeves with separation to the gusset corner
• Sleeves with wide cuff
• Front cuff with slit and overlap
• Back with seam at centre back and classic slit
• Back with piped pocket on one side
• Length in c.b.: 75.0 cm

Gusset Kimonos Overview

• Features
• Variants
• Processing tips

Format: DIN A4
Page Count: 14 pages