M. Müller & Sohn Magazine 01-02.2024

The magazine specialized in fashion and pattern making is published six times a year as a turnaround edition with topics on women’s and men’s fashion. The magazine is available for download in English. Each issue of M. Müller & Sohn magazine contains an enclosed sewing pattern.

On the designer look pages of women’s fashion, we shed light on the subject of pleats. We use current designs from the international catwalks to show the variety of pleat designs. Whether enchanting pleated dresses, strict pleated skirts or organically flowing pleated drapes: designers give free rein to their creativity. Afterwards, expert Barbara Pesendorfer gives us lots of interesting tips on how to make corsages and corsets. She explains which materials are used when to achieve the perfect result. This is followed by a tribute to trousers: the Raffaelo Rossi company has continued to develop since its beginnings 111 years ago, successfully focusing on its core competence, trousers. In March 2023, the company launched unisex trousers.

In the pattern technique, we focus on the blazer in a classic fitted and hourglass silhouette. The focus here is on extravagant seams and pocket details. The shoulders are emphasised with padding to accentuate the silhouette. We also show different collar constructions and plain sleeves with sleeve slit variations on all four blazer models.

From page 30 onwards, you can read how the Sigmaringen Fashion College, now in its 50th year, skilfully combines traditional craftsmanship with the latest digital processes and sees this as the key to preserving the craft. Finally, we introduce you to a new alternative to petroleum-based materials. The Swiss company QWSTION has developed Bananatex® from abacà fibre, also known as banana hemp. A fabric that is not only characterised by its exceptionally high tear and abrasion resistance, but also has the potential to be recognised as the next innovation in the textile world after organic cotton.

On the menswear designer look pages, we show blouses for men. Delicate organza, feminine patterned silk chiffon or voiles break down gender boundaries. Floral elements adorn impressively handcrafted accessories, embellishments and cuts, button plackets and cuffs. Below you will find a report on the men’s fashion fair PITTI UOMO 105, where the Fortezza da Basso in Florence once again became the centre of men’s fashion and lifestyle at the beginning of January. Alongside guest designers Todd Snyder, Magliano and S.S. Daley, 832 brands presented their latest collections for the winter season 24/25 to industry insiders and the press. M.Müller & Sohn was there to track down the most important trends in jackets, coats, jackets, trousers and more.

In the pattern technique we show the construction of three shirt jackets with sophisticated details. The shirt jacket, also known as a worker shirt, skilfully fuses the robustness of a jacket with the pattern of a shirt and today represents a successful synthesis of style and functionality that has not forgotten its roots in everyday working life.

In the following portrait, we introduce you to Polish men’s tailor Dawid Kukliński. As the opportunities in his home country of Poland are limited, he actively sought dialogue and mutual inspiration with other bespoke tailors worldwide, particularly online. In this way, he established contact with Germany via social networks, which enabled him to significantly expand his customer base. He now commutes to Berlin once a month for customer appointments and to Leipzig to take measurements for new orders or to carry out fittings.

In December 2023, M. Müller & Sohn Fachschule was certified with the AZAV (Accreditation and Licensing Ordinance for Labour Promotion / Akkreditierungs- und Zulassungsverordnung Arbeitsförderung) by the Federal Employment Agency in Germany. In addition to the confirmation with letter and seal for a training centre at the highest quality level, you can find out what else this means, what exciting additional courses await the participants and what kind of atmosphere has developed at the school in the Training section. Finally, you will find detailed instructions for sewing three different trouser hems in the magazine.

The enclosed pattern contains basic pattern blocks corsage & corsets.

This issue contains 60 pages.

The topics (women´s) at a glance:

Designer Look

• Fold Position

Processing

• Suitable Fabrics for Bodices & Corsets

Portrait

• Raffaelo Rossi – Homage to Trousers

Pattern Technique

• Blazer with Seam & Pocket Details

Education

• Sigmaringen Fashion College

Briefly introduced

• 100 % Banana

Imprint

Pattern

• Basic Pattern Blocks Corsage & Corsets

The topics (men’s) at a glance

Designer Look

• Blouse Hype

Pitti Immagine Uomo

• Pitti Uomo 105 – from Tradition to Avant-garde

Pattern Technique

• Shirt Jackets with Details

Editorial Team’s Tips

• Book, podcast and exhibition recommendations

Portrait

• Dawid Kukliński

Education

• Certified Expertise

Processing

• Trousers Turn-ups