Cargo pants pattern construction
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The military look is en vougue. No surprise – after all, this style is not only casual, but also incredibly practical and versatile. Cargo trousers are a wonderful alternative to jeans and in the skinny-fit version even suitable for office use. To support a perfect fit, slightly elastic fabrics are recommended for the two models shown.
Cargo-Hose mit Raffung
Basic Pattern: Standard Pants Block, size 40 (US 10 / UK 12).
Front and Back Pattern:
Use a good fitting standard pants pattern with darts in size 40 (see measurement chart) as a foundation. Taper the outseam and inseam 1 cm at the knee line and 2 cm at the hem (= 32 cm hem width). Shorten the hem around 2 cm. Draw the new outseam and inseam up to the crotch line. Draw the new hemline. Draw the new waistline. Cross out the darts. The dart intake remains as gathers. Draw the round front pocket and the pocket bag on the front pattern. Plot the style seams on the front and back pattern as shown in the illustration. Mark the front style seam 5 cm below the pocket entry. Transfer the position of the style seam to the back pattern and draw the back style seam accordingly. The style seams end 1 cm each above and below the knee line. Mark the tabs for the cargo pocket. Plot the cargo pocket 19 cm wide as a separate piece. Draw the zip pocket and the small flap pocket on the cargo pocket pattern as shown in the illustration. Sew two pocket pieces together and attach the pocket with rings to the pants. Draw the patch pocket with pocket flap and tab on the back pattern. Mark the cutting lines for the pin tucks. Draw the knee patch as illustrated and mark the cutting lines for the pin tucks. Draft the waistband casing according to the measurements of the front and back pattern. Mark the tab pieces on the waistband. Gather the waistband at the sides with elastic and draw cord. Mark cutting lines at the lower side pieces for the gathers. Then gather the outseams at the bottom with draw cords.
Finished Pattern Pieces:
Separate all pattern pieces. Copy the pocket backing, the pocket bag, the knee patch and the tab pieces from the front pattern. Copy the patch pocket, the pocket flap and the tab piece from the back pattern. Slash and spread 1 cm for each pin tuck on the knee patch and the patch pocket pattern. Mirror the waistband and gather with elastic to 1/2 the waist girth. Mark gathers. Slash and spread the lower side pieces for the gathers as illustrated. Blend all seam lines. Mark the grainlines.
Cargo Pants with V-Box Pleat Pockets
Basic Pattern: Standard Pants Block, size 40 (US 10 / UK 12).
Front and Back Pattern:
Use a good fitting standard pants pattern with darts in size 40 as a foundation. Taper the outseam and inseam 1 cm at the knee line as well as at the hem. Extend the hem around 6 cm for the extra long fold-up cuff. Draw the new outseam and inseam up to the crotch line. Draw the new hemline. Draw the new waistline. Cross out the darts. The dart intake remains as gathers. Draw the style seams along the front and back creaseline. Shift the back style seam 2 cm at the waist. Mark the cutting lines for the pin tucks 3 cm parallel to the style seams. Plot the pocket on the front and back pattern as shown in the illustration. The pockets are highlighted in gray for your convenience. Mark the slanted cutting lines for the V-shaped box pleats. Plot the cargo pocket 17 cm wide. Draw the zipper pocket and the tool strap as shown in the illustration. Draft the waistband casing according to the measurements of the front and back pattern. Gather the waistband with elastic and draw cord.
Finished Pattern Pieces:
Separate all pattern pieces. Copy the front pocket, the cargo pocket as well as the back patch pocket. Copy the side pocket pieces and join them together. Slash and spread the pockets for the V-box pleats as illustrated. Fold the pleats to equalize the seam lines. The back patch pocket consists of two pocket pieces. Slash and spread 1 cm for each pin tuck on the front and back pattern. Fold the pin tucks to equalize the seam lines. Copy the tool strap piece, slash and spread around double the strap depth for each cutting line. Mirror the waistband and gather with elastic to 1/2 the waist girth. Mark gathers. Blend all seam lines. Mark the grainlines.
