Download Pattern Construction Children: Grading Children’s Clothing

Instructions for grading children's clothing

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Grading a Children’s Coat Pattern

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for a children’s coat from size 122 auf to size 140

This design is graded in the length and at the side seam for the increasing body height. The grading increment at the chest is 3 cm per size according to the size chart, while the grading increment for the body height is 6 cm per size. The length grading shows how to set the increments for the waist and the coat hem. The grading increments are shown in table 9.

Find this and many more grading instructions in our book Grading Women & Kids. Whether jackets, coats, dresses or trousers: With the detailed step-by-step instructions from our book you can easily adjust any pattern to the required size and keep the fit even after the change.

PDF Download: Grading Children’s Clothing

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Instructions for grading children's clothing

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Grading the Back and Front Pattern

• 1–2 Scye depth increment = 12 mm. Measure this amount perpendicular to the waist line at the centre back and at the neck line.
• 2-3 Back width increment = 15 mm. Measure this amount to the right at the neckline, the yoke and the hem. Draw the centre back parallel to the basic pattern.
  2–4 Neck point increment = 10.5 mm. Calculation: Back width increment 15 mm minus neck width increment 4.5 mm = 10.5 mm. Measure the neck point increment to the right and draw the new neckline using the basic pattern as a template.
• 5–6 Shoulder increment = 9 mm. Place the Basic pattern on the new neck point (point 4) parallel to the centre back and transfer the shoulder seam and mark the shoulder width (dashed line). Extend the shoulder seam 9 mm and draw the armhole to the back armhole notch.
• 7-8 ½ of the scye width increment = 4.5 mm. Add the ½-scye-width increment parallel to the sideseam.
• 9–10 Length increment = 120 mm (30 mm each size). This measurement is also dependant on the style.
• 10–11 ½ of the scye width increment = 4.5 mm. Add the ½-scye-width increment or even the whole scye width increment (9 mm) to the outside at the hem depending on the style.
• 12–13 Back waist length/waistline relocation = 24 mm. Draw the new waistline parallel to the basic pattern.
• 13–14 ½ of the scye width increment = 4.5 mm. Add the ½-scye-width increment at the waist.

• 1–2 Front waist length increment: 18 mm. Measure the front waist length increment perpendicular to the waist line from the neck point upwards.
• 2–3 Front neck point increment = 16.5 mm. Calculation: Chest width increment 21 mm – neck width increment 4.5 mm = 16.5 mm. Measure this amount to the front.
• 4–5 ½ of the scye width increment = 4.5 mm. Add the ½-scye-width increment at the sideseam.
• 6 Shoulder increment = 9 mm. Place the Basic pattern on the new neck point (point 3) parallel to the centre front, transfer the shoulder seam and mark the shoulder width (dashed line). Extend the shoulder seam 9 mm.
• 7–8 Waistline relocation = 24 mm. 8–9 ½ scye width increment = 4.5 mm. Add this amount at the waist. Draw the new waistline parallel to the basic pattern.
• 10–11 Length increment = 120 mm. This measurement is also dependant on the style.
• 11–12 ½ of the scye width increment = 4.5 mm. Add the ½-scye-width increment or even the whole scye width increment (9 mm) to the outside at the hem depending on the style.
• 13–14 Chest width increment = 21 mm. Add the chest width increment parallel to the centre front and extend this line upwards and downwards. 15-16 Pocket height increment = 26.4 mm. Move the pocket downward.

Drawing Template for Grading the Neckline

• It is useful to make a template for drawing the new neckline. Trace a copy of the Basic neck line. 3-3a ½ neck width increment = 2.25 mm.
  Measure 2.25 mm upwards at the neck point. 14a Neck width increment: 4.5 mm. Measure the neck width increment to the front.

Grading a Two-Piece Sleeve

• 1-2 Vertical sleeve cap increment = 9.6 mm. Measure the sleeve cap increment upwards.
• 2-3 Horizontal sleeve cap increment = 12 mm. Square out to the right.
• 4-5 Vertical sleeve seam increment = 2.4 mm.
• 5–6 Horizontal increment at the sleeve cap = 10.5 mm. Measure this amount to the outside Draw the sleeve cap line using the basic pattern as a drawing template.
• 7–8 Sleeve length increment = 65.4 mm. Calculation: Length increment 75 mm – vertical sleeve cap increment 9.6 mm = 65.4 mm. Measure this amount downward. Draw the sleeve hem with the basic pattern and mark the original hem width (dashed line).
• 9–10 ½ hem width increment = 4.5 mm. Extend the hem on the upper sleeve and under sleeve and draw the new upper sleeve seam.
• 11–12 ½ horizontal increment at the sleeve cap = 5.25 mm. Relocate the notch to the left.

Pattern blouson jacket for children

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The pattern sheet contains two blouson jackets for children in sizes 98-140.

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You can find many more pattern instructions and patterns for sewing children’s clothing in our online shop.

Download Pattern Construction Children: Maternity and Baby Clothes

Instructions for the pattern construction of maternity wear and baby clothes

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