Which yarn is the right one?
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(Photo Credit: Shutterstock/AtlasStudio)
Sewing threads and its correct use -When sewing, all materials used must be coordinated. Fabric, sewing thread and interlining influence each other in their different behaviour. If one component is changed, it always affects the hole result.
This article is an excerpt from the German speaking reference book “Atelier – Fachwissen aus der Praxis Teil 1” (currently not available).
A not insignificant factor is a good yarn. The yarns available in different materials (polyester, polyamide, linen, cotton), qualities and colours have become very diverse. But how can I recognise a suitable and high-quality sewing thread without any effort? First of all, I only look at the sewing thread visually. If there are knots or other irregularities visible, this spool of yarn is not an option for me. Then comes the practical test: The thread is wound up and threaded into the previously cleaned sewing machine. Then test sew on a solid fabric in a contrasting colour (black/white) with all the stitches that will be used later. If when sewing there is a lot of thread abrasion and a lot of lint has quickly accumulated in the bobbin capsule, I look for a different sewing thread.
Sample sewing on the fabric
Double up the fabric and thread the sewing machine. If the matching sewing thread is available in different colours, thread the bobbin spool with a strongly contrasting colour. Sew seams in straight stitch with different stitch lengths, 2-6 mm. Look closely at the fabric from both sides. If the seam is knotted exactly in the centre of the fabric, the thread tension is correct. If you see the upper thread on the underside or vice versa, the thread tension is not correct. The two different colours make it easy to see where the tension needs to be changed. To find out how to change the tension on your machine, please refer to the operating instructions for the sewing machine. Optimum thread tension is tested on a zigzag stitch with a stitch length of 3 mm. If the knotting occurs in the fabric, the sewing machine is optimally adjusted. If the quality of the thread is poor, no sewing machine and certainly no overlock machine can be adjusted correctly. A good sewing thread produces a smooth seam, without seam puckering or thread breaks.
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The application is smooth. The price difference between a cheap yarn and a good branded product is less than you might think at first glance, because your time should be worth it to you not to save at the wrong end. If a suitable yarn can be processed without any problems, it will be cheaper in the end, because the time lost with rethreading, unravelling the seam because there has been a crimp, etc., is eliminated. Besides, your machine will thank you for it. Cheap yarns often cut grooves in the thread guide that are not visible to the eye. These grooves cannot be repaired and the durability of the machine is greatly reduced. I myself only work with branded products and have my machine inspected once a year. Since the last few years, these machines have been constantly improved and there is hardly any application for which they cannot be used. For example, the “Gütermann Allesnäher” with a needle size of 70-120 can be used easily and cleanly for sewing the thinnest fabrics, leather and thick tarpaulins. The sewing thread is available in different metre counts and approx. 400 different colours. Similar to pure silk, the sewing thread adapts very well to the background.
What is special about overlock yarn?
Overlock sewing machines make special demands on the sewing thread and immediately resent wrong threads or blunt needles. I have had good experiences with Gütermann sewing thread for the overlock machine, which is available as Miniking. The sewing thread has a strength of No 120 and is also easy to work with on the sewing machine. It is on sale on 1000m miniking spools in 24 colours. Since I personally favour very thin, inconspicuous seams with the overlock machine, the semi-transparent overlock thread Gütermann Tera 180 is my absolute favourite for the overlock machine. Gütermann creativ Tera 180 is available in 40 colours. The semi-transparent character of the sewing thread means that it adapts to any background in terms of colour. This allows me to have to rethread the machine less often.
How can I recognise a good sewing thread?
Today, cotton is used especially for patchwork. Cotton sewing threads have been displaced in their importance by the universally applicable all-purpose sewing thread. Visually, they can be recognised by their matt shimmer. It is especially important to pay attention to good quality and the right thickness. Cheap products often have knots in the yarn that cause the thread to break. Silk sewing threads are available as reel silk and schappe silk. The Gütermann company still produces an extensive range of 180 colours on 100 m rolls of schappe silk and 180 colours on 10 m rolls of reel silk. Today, pure silk is only rarely used, mostly for particularly fine fabrics or as decorative seams.
The range of rayon and metallic threads for embroidery and decorative stitching is almost inexhaustible. These embroidery threads are only suitable for decorative purposes and must not be used for sewing. The colour palettes of the different companies leave nothing to be desired. The result depends not only on the embroidery threads used, but also on the quality and possibilities of the machines and the patterns. Special attention should also be paid to the correct storage of the threads. The place next to the heater or in the sun will affect the quality of any yarn.
You can find many more tips and tricks on sewing and tailoring in the sewing section. For beautiful sewing patterns that fit perfectly, just check out our online shop.