Pattern Construction Suit Jacket with Golf Pleat
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(Photo Credit: © CATWALKPIX.COM)
This article gives an insight into the pattern construction of a suit jacket with golf pleat for men.
Find the full article in our magazine Rundschau for men 5.2017.
Design 1111
Template: Basic Suit Jacket Block, Herren-Rundschau 10/2013, page 15
Draw the centre back straight for cutting at the fabric fold: Extend the hem 1 cm at the centre back so that the straight line for the new centre back does not take away too much width at 1/2-scye-depth. Extend the length of the jacket slightly and draw the new back hemline perpendicular to the new centre back. Lower the neckline 0.3 cm at the centre back, 0.5 cm at the shoulder and 1.5 cm at the centre front. Draw the new neckline perpendicular to the new centre back. Mark the closing button at the waistline. Mark the upper and the two lower buttons with 10.5 cm distance. Add 1.3 cm overlap at the waist and the upper button parallel to the centre front. Draw a perpendicular line to the hem as a guideline for the front edge. The guideline does not have to meet the centre front at the hem but must be at right angles to the hem which is only possible if the abdomen width plus 1 cm is not larger than the chest width. Draw the rounded front edge to the hem as shown in the illustration. Draw the upper front edge slightly tapered to the centre front at the neckline. Blend the front at chest height for a smooth transition...
Under Collar
The under collar remains in one piece but must be steam-pressed in shape at the collarstand. Stretch the collarstand at the collar seam but keep the collar fold short. Check the shape by folding the collar over the collarstand. The collar edge does not need to be steam pressed and stretched. The outer length is achieved by slashing and spreading the collar pieces.
Further Instructions for patternmaking and sewing pattern for men can be found in our online shop.