Pattern Construction for Wide Leg Trousers
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(Photo Credit: © CATWALKPIX.COM)
Designers send their models in XXL wide leg trousers onto the catwalk. The motto: The wider the leg of the trousers, the better. High-waist Marlene Trousers, Paperbag Trousers and Culottes are especially popular. These trouser mesmerize with flowing fabrics for a fabulous figure and thus remain very high on the trend pedestal.
The complete pattern technique is available in issue Rundschau 4.2018. This issue is german speaking but you can order a english translation with it thru the customer service > kundenservice@ebnermedia.de .
The reference book Metric Patternmaking for Skirt and Trousers includes the template for the trousers pattern.
The designs
(Photo Credit: Drawing V. Feyerabend)
Tied-Paperbag
Template: Basic Trouser Block with 1 Pleat in Size 40
(Photo Credit: Technical Drawing S. Lindner)
Choose the amount of pleat intake so that the side seam is still slightly curved over the hip area (here 6 cm). For more pleat intake, slash and spread the front pattern for more pleat intake.
Front and Back Pattern
Raise the centre back 1 cm at the waist and draw the contoured waistband 4 cm wide parallel to the new waistline. Mark the front pleat 6 cm away from the centre front with 6 cm intake that will be sewn closed. Lower the crotch 5.5 cm and extend the crotch 2 cm. Shorten the trousers 2 cm at the hem and draw the new inseam and crotch seam as shown in the illustration. Extend the width at the knee 1.5 cm at the side and draw the new outseam from the hip curve to the hem.
Mark the cutting lines for the two cross pleats on the front pattern: Draw the first cutting line 1 cm below the waistband at the pleat and ending 8 cm below the waistband at the sideseam. Mark the second cutting line 2.5 cm and 7 cm below the upper cutting line. Mark the front zipper 14 cm long. Draw the underlap and the facing for the front fly 3.5 cm wide. Mark the double welt pocket 13 long and draw the pocket bag as shown. Mark the front creaseline from the pleat to the hem. Add two times 6 cm for the cuff and 4 cm for the hem allowance parallel to the hemline. Mirror the inseam and the outseam over the break lines.
Front Pleats
Separate the contoured waistband from the trouser pattern. Cut trough the front pattern along the pleat line to the cross pleats. Slash and spread the front pattern at the cross lines. Open each cross pleat 4 cm and mirror the seamlines for the pleat hood as shown in the left figure. Sew the front pleat around 6 cm long and close the pleat horizontally.
Left figure: Mark half of the pleat intake and mirror the seamline. upwards Connect both lines to the centre.
Finished Pattern Pieces
Join the front and back waistband pattern pieces together at the sideseam and blend the seamlines. Gather one side of the ties (here: 75 cm x 10 cm) and sew the ties with the centre back seam. Copy the front fly underlap as well as the front and back pocket bag. Mark the grainline and the creaseline.
High-Waist Paperbag
Template: Basic Trouser Block with 1 Pleat in Size 40
(Photo Credit: Technical Drawing S. Lindner)
Wide-Leg Culotte
Template: Basic Trouser Block with Dart in Size 40
(Photo Credit: Technical Drawing S. Lindner)
High-Waist Culotte
Template: Basic Trouser Block with Dart in Size 40
(Photo Credit: Technical Drawing S. Lindner)
