Pattern Construction Sheath Dress
Deutsch
The sheath dress conveys a clear simplicity. It is usually short to medium long and has a silhouette close to the body, while a shift dress sits rather loosely. Sheath dresses are a timeless classic and emphasize an elegant femininity. How a pattern for a simple sheath dress with fork darts and short sleeves is constructed, is explained in the following article.
Pattern Construction Sheath Dress with Fork Darts
Template: Fitted dress pattern, matching onepiece sleeve in size 40
This article is an excerpt from the Rundschau für Damenmode 5/2015. In this issue you will find combinable collection items such as a short coat, raglan blouse, a 7/8 jeans and a lapel vest. The booklet can be ordered through our customer service: kundenservice@ebnermedia.de
(Photo Credit: Elisabeth Kreienbühl)
Dress Front Pattern
- Draw the waist seam and mark as cutting line. Draw a vertical cutting line from the front armhole notch perpendicular to the hem. On the waist line, measure the dart intake with 2.5 cm from the vertical cutting line to the left. Cross out the original waist dart. Measure ½ of the chest width minus 1/40 of the chest girth from the bust point downwards to determine the under bust line. Square out to the left and right from this point. Measure ¼ of the under bust girth minus 0.5 cm from the side seam to the left (Ubu = under bust girth = 78.0 cm). Measure the intake at the under bust line and transfer half of this amount to each side of the waist dart. Draw the new dart legs to the bust point and connect the under bust dart to the dart intake at the waist line.
Completing the Front Pattern
- Separate the bodice and the skirt pattern pieces at the waist line seam. Relocate the bust dart intake to the waist. From the under bust line upwards, distribute the waist dart in two darts ending 2 cm left and right of the bust point. Draw the new neck line according to the illustration. Close the intake at the waist on the skirt pattern and blend the waist line. Remove the additional hem width at the side seam and draw the new side seam as shown in the illustration.
Dress Back Pattern
- Mark the length at the centre back 60 cm below the waist. Draw the waist seam and mark as cutting line. Cut through the back pattern from the armhole to the shoulder dart and relocate the shoulder dart intake to the armhole. Daw the new armhole curve. Draw the new neck line according to the illustration.
Dress Sleeve
- Mark the back sleeve fold as cutting line. Mark the sleeve length with 5 cm at the sleeve seam.
Finished Pattern Pieces
- Copy all pattern pieces. Equalize the seam lengths of the front and back skirt pattern. Blend the seam transition at the hem line. Slash and spread the sleeve cap 1 cm at the cutting line. Blend the sleeve cap line and the sleeve hem. Mark the grain line.
The pattern sheet contains a dress for the civil wedding and a one-piece suit in sizes 36-46.
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You can find many more cutting instructions and finished patterns for sewing dresses in our online shop.
