M. Müller & Sohn Magazine 06.2023
Professional Magazine for Fashion and Pattern Making // Women`s Balletclothing // Shorten Zip // Grading Patterns for Menswear: Frockcoats // Pattern Bib SkirtsDeutsch
The magazine specialized in fashion and pattern making is published ten times a year as a turnaround edition with topics on women’s and men’s fashion. The magazine is available for download in English. Each issue of M. Müller & Sohn magazine contains an enclosed sewing pattern.
On the designer look pages of women’s fashion, we cast an eye over the current trouser styles and give an overview of the latest trousers trends. We then introduce the Potsdam hat studio Maliné and owner Kristin Müller. Since 2008, the milliner has been making hats and other headwear by hand here, each piece is unique and tells its own story. The pattern technique is about ballet clothing. Basic pattern blocks for bodysuits, bodyshirts and leggings are shown, as well as pattern variations for a ballet top with a wrap-around look, a ballet skirt, a ballet body dress and a catsuit for ballerinas. We continue with knowledge about the kimono. Whether colour, pattern, length or the type of collar: everything has a specific meaning. You can read a kimono. You just have to know what the respective colours and parameters stand for in order to recognise the symbolism behind it. The Japanese national costume is loaded with symbols and reflects a long tradition of Japanese culture that is still lived today.
On the Designer Look pages for men´s fashion we show the waistcoat highlights from the current crunways. Afterwards, there is an interesting interview in the Stage + Costume section. The musical “Hamilton” has been playing in Hamburg since October 2022. The global success, which has been a bestseller on Broadway in New York for years, not only mixes up the musical scene in the Hanseatic city with its story, but also delights with its historical costumes. Costume Coordinator Reto Tuchschmid told us where the costumes were made, what problems had to be solved and what happens to them after the end of the season. The Pattern technique is about the grading of two frock coats. The grading schemes shown are valid for a frock coat with panel seams and pointed lapel and one for a conductor’s frock coat, a frock coat with panel seams, lap part and high-necked front part. They can also be transferred to patterns with similar seams. The grading guide is followed by another instruction on shortening zips. Despite the wide range of zips available in the shops, the right length is often not available. But this is a problem of the past, because there is a solution: simply shorten! Finally, we would like to remind you of the Rana Plaza tragedy in Bangladesh. The collapse of the textile factory building ten years ago shook people all over the world and set initiatives in motion to fight the abuses in the garment industry. We researched what has happened so far and what is still missing to really improve the situation of the workers on the ground. Important steps have been taken, but there is still a long way to go.
The enclosed pattern contains four bib skirts (in European sizes 36 – 50).
This issue contains 60 pages.
The topics (women´s) at a glance:
Designer Look
- Trouserama
Porträt
- Maliné Hat Atelier
Pattern Technique
- Ballet clothing
Knowledge
- Kimono – From Robe to It-piece
Imprint
Pattern
- Bib skirts
The topics (men’s) at a glance
Designer Look
- Vest´s nest
Stage + Costume
- Hamilton
Pattern Technique
- Grading: Frock Coats
Editorial Team’s Tips
- Book, podcast and exhibition recommendations
Processing
- Shorten zip
Industry + Craft
- Made in Bangladesh