M. Müller & Sohn Magazine 01-02.2021

The magazine specialized in fashion and pattern making is published ten times a year as a turnaround edition with topics on women’s and men’s fashion. The magazine is available for download in English. Each issue of M. Müller & Sohn magazine contains an enclosed sewing pattern.

On the women’s fashion pages this time we show fashion with creative back designs. Cut-outs, gathers, knots, bows and lacing or spectacular tailoring and special closure solutions are design elements with a surprise effect. We will then present “The bark project” by Charlett Wenig and Johanna Hehemeyer-Cürten. The design researchers developed a method of using tree bark, which was previously only a waste product, as a local raw material for sustainable material innovation: Bark for dressing. Then, in the Pattern Technique, we give instructions on the pattern construction of models with a special back and shoulder design. The back is constructed here with pleats, cut on collars, seam divisions or draped elements. Information on the width and arrangement of eases for the pattern construction of basic patterns can be found from page 25 onwards. In the eases table we show the measurements that need to be added to the body measurements, depending on the required pattern width, the use of the material and the comfort requirements, in order to be able to construct a perfect basic pattern. Finally, we give a small insight into the exhibition “Hautnah” about the costume designer Barbara Baum, which is currently being shown at the Museum für Film und Fernsehen in Berlin.

We show men’s fashion in the latest romantic trend. Satin, lace, transparent fabrics, ruffles and flounces, delicate flowing shapes: Men’s fashion discovers its feminine side for spring/summer 2021. We then delve into the world of textile dyeing processes. We shed light on the fashion industry’s search for a way to make dyeing processes more environmentally friendly in the future. You will find the current suit trends for 2021 on page 9. Afterwards, we show you pattern constructions for unusual suit jacket designs in the pattern technique. On page 20 you can find out what options are available for designing the inside pockets of suit jackets. From page 22 onwards we introduce you to the Hamburg bespoke atelier Musterknaben. The mastertailors Uwe Müller and Thomas Klein create bespoke suits in designs from the 1920s to the 1940s and send their customers on a fashion journey through time. Finally, we introduce you to the smart garments of the Heatable Capsule Collection, the result of a collaboration between Deutsche Telekom, Red Bull’s fashion subsidiary AlphaTauri and Schoeller Textil AG. The heatable fashion can be adjusted to your personal comfort temperature, opening a whole new door in the fashion world.

The enclosed pattern contains a dungarees and an overall for women (in European sizes 36 – 46).

The topics (ladies) at a glance:

Designer Look

• Back with a wow effect

Portrait

• From bark to jacket

Pattern Technique

• Back- and Shoulder Designs

Knowledge

• Eases Allocation

Stage + Costume

• Icons of costume history

The topics (mens) at a glance:

Designer Look

• Romantic Man

Industry News

• An industry must show its colours

Designer Look

• Suit Trends 2021

Pattern Technique

• Suit Jackets

Knowledge

• Inside Pockets for Jackets

Interview

• Musterknaben Hamburg

Briefly Introduced

• Heatable clothing

Editorial Team’s Tips

• Streaming, TV and Event Recommendations